Version 2 Pictures and Video Coming Soon!
|Instructions for Cassette Modification|
|1. With the cassette free from the hull, you are to find the plastic ears on both sides of the cassette. These are where the locks hold the cassette in place.
2. On Revo models you can snip both ends off with simple cutters. On PA, Outback, and other models, you will need to drill a 1/2 hole in replace of where these plastic ears were located. The cassette is hollow so go slow when drilling this out. The plastic on the Revo is soft, where the PA and Outback tend to be more brittle in nature. Drill slow with a good bit.
3. Once drilled, you can slide the lock pin through the cassette. There should be a little friction to ensure a snug fit. If it moves back and forth easily, I would use some clear adhesive glue or epoxy to help keep it from sliding back and forth. Some people tend to drill the hole to large.
4. Now, the second part of cassette modification is essential and should be measured accurately in order to the use of the drive system optimally. You will be cutting 2 vertical holes on either side of the cassette. Each side is identical to the other, so make sure you measure multiple times before you cut. As a rule, either make a template or use tape as a straight line to identify the center of the cassette, which is right above the lock pin.
5. I measure on one side 2.75 inches from the center pin tape and mark the casting line with a permanent marker. This is done on both sides. The hole in which the bushing fits is 35mm. I do use a metric hole cutter for this part. So, once you have the marks drill out the holes on both sides.
6. On the drive itself you will see 2 plastic bushings that will be used on the cassette. The long center bushing will not be needed. You will need to unbolt the clutch housing, slide it off, unbolt the tiller arm and throttle cable, take off the upper clamp, and slide the bushings off the drive tube.
7. Now, you are to place each bushing on one side of the cassette and then proceed to slide the cassette down the drive tube. Tighten the upper clamp for a snug fit and place the clutch housing back on noting the hole for the smaller bolt. Proceed to bolt the tiller arm back in place. You will still need to make slight adjustments later.
|Instructions for Engine Attachment and Throttle Cable|
|1. This step I would advise to complete with the drive inserted or clamped vertically, so the engine can be inserted into the drive. Make sure the pull cord is facing the driver with the tiller handle and prop facing the same direction.
2. Once the Honda or other engine is unboxed, place the engine on the clutch housing and secure it with 3 of the 4 bolts and washers. Leave the 1 bolt closest the carburetor off. Take off the air cleaner cover for the next step.
3. Open the tiller arm up to a 90-degree position and place the throttle cable through the carburetor bracket with a few turns only. Now guide the cable end into the channel on the butterfly on the carburetor. You will need to rotate the butterfly clockwise most likely. The cable end should slide in and down. let go of the butterfly and proceed to either screw in or out the cable end so the carburetor is not opening at all. Tighten the barrel nut and this part is done.
4. You can move the throttle cable around your tiller arm to suit your preference.
Kill Switch Connection
You will notice one black and one red end on the kill switch wiring. Black needs to be crimped to black and the heat shrink connector closed with a heat source for a waterproof connection. The red eyelet then gets placed under the 4th engine mounting bolt and snugged up. You are about ready to add oil.
Adding Oil and Filling It Up
With the engine laying on its side, and the pull cord facing upward, use a good 30 weight oil and fill up the crankcase to the lower thread on the filler plug. Do not use synthetic oil and overfilling will cause oil to be sucked into the carburetor. Please follow all startup procedures in the Honda manual.
What you see on the right is the final version of a gas engine drop in motor leg system for the standard hobie cassette using a Honda 4 stroke 35cc engine. The PA abd Outback version is built the same way, but utilizing the larger cassette. This has the upgraded twist shifter, rubber throttle cable guides and all of the parts listed below. If you are interested in a complete setup, supplied with or without an engine, please inquire. These are all custom made.
These are the parts needed from the original Kayak Buddy leg kit that you can order to achieve this simple version to propel your kayak. Leg kit can be purchased on the order page, click here.
1. Tiller arm clamp and tiller arm
2. Main tube, gearbox, bushings, and driveshaft
3. Upper and lower clamps
4. Clutch housing
5. * Additional - Cast aluminum prop with 10mm collar
6. * Additional - Original factory drive block off (owner supplied)
7. * Additional - Smooth stainless steel cross bar 1/2 (6 inch)
These 2 blade props are casted specifically for the use on these shafts. The rear hub will need to be ground down a bit so the pin connects to the rear of the hub. Because of the variances of different driveshafts lengths, the hub was made deeper. A stainless collar with allen head fitting willl secure it to the shaft. The collar will need to be drilled to 10mm if the diameter of the shaft is the wider version.
Although, this is essentially not needed to cut the system down, as the original can be utilized, some people prefer to have a custom stainless throttle system with billet components. All sizes can be created to make the throttle system more responsive and anti-corrosive to salt water.
These are brand new custom CNC designed at 45 cm or 17.75 inches to allow a few more inches of vertical adjustment. These are hardened driveshafts with 9T splines on both ends.
This is a 6 inch solid stainless steel rod that is utilized in the location of the ears on the Hobie block for the drive system. They fit right through the block and lock in to the factory locations.